Before You Buy
Buying a goat isn’t like buying a tool. You’re joining a herd story – genetics, health history, temperament, management style, and long-term goals. The right match saves you heartbreak later.
Know what you’re buying, and why.
Purpose first. Pet, show, breeding, preservation, youth project, brush control, fiber, companion.
Type matters more than a haircut. A gorgeous coat can hide weak structure or poor health. Coat can be grown; structure is harder to fix.
Ask what the breeder selects for. Example: temperament, longevity, udder/scrotal soundness, feet/legs, bite, fainting expression (myotonia), parasite resilience, mothering, and yes – coat quality.
Questions to ask a breeder, the ones that actually matter
Health & Management
What is the goat’s current feed routine (hay type, grain if any, minerals, water source)? Is there any of these items in particular that this particular goat needs more or less of, responds better to?
What parasite program do you use (fecals, targeted deworming, FAMACHA, pasture rotation)? Once you decide on a goat, ask for a chart or any information this breeder uses in their program. Ask for its health history (last worming/with what wormer(s) and dosage.
Any history of chronic issues (bloat-prone, persistent scours, respiratory problems, abscesses)? Ask for the history of both Sire/Dam and Grands, this matters.
What vaccines have been given, and when? You’ll want a dated history for your choice goat.
Temperament & Handling
Is the goat easy to catch and handle?
Has it been on a collar/lead? Trimmed? Exposed to dogs/kids/noise?
Structure & Function
How does the goat move when it walks away and back? Ask to see video.
Ask about bite alignment, legs/feet, pastern strength, topline, and overall balance. Again, video is great to help you see what you may be getting. Don’t forget lineage, ask about family members.
Documentation
Ask for what they can provide: pedigree history, recorded parentage, ID method, and sales terms. Many breeders keep a website and have general information available on it, so do your homework and check there.
Practical note: buying from environments with unknown history (like auctions) carries higher disease/parasite uncertainty because you can’t verify why animals were sold or what they were exposed to while waiting.
Identification & Paperwork – Keep it Simple
Make sure the goat has a clear primary ID (scrapie ID, microchip, tattoo, or other official method used by that herd). You should want a current blood work-up. As a general rule, that cost is usually on the buyer.
Confirm the goat matches paperwork before it leaves. Check the goat for tattoos and/or any identifying information against the paperwork.
If you’re registering: verify what is required for that registry and what the breeder will provide. This really should be done before putting a deposit down on your selection(s). Know the expectations before exchanging money.
Find a Vet BEFORE You Need One
This is a big one. Many rural areas have limited small-ruminant support.
Call local clinics and ask: “Do you see goats?” and “Do you handle emergencies after hours?”
Ask what they prefer for emergencies: phone call, text, email, or ER referral.
Keep an emergency contact list printed in your barn.
Your “GREEN FLAGS”
Breeder can explain their program clearly.
Goat is bright, alert, eating normally, and moving comfortably.
You get consistent answers, not vague avoidance.
Breeder encourages questions and wants the goat placed well.
Your “YELLOW FLAGS”
“He’s fine” with no details.
No idea what minerals they use.
Can’t tell you basic age/DOB/parentage when they claim “registered.”
Pushes urgency, “someone else is coming today”, while avoiding questions.
Choosing the right goat begins with choosing the right foundation.
Heritage Silky Fainting Goat Registry (HSFGR) Practical guidance rooted in stewardship. This is general educational material and does not replace veterinary care.