HSFGR Breed Standard
This is a living preservation document. HSFGR’s Breed Standard is designed to document and preserve the heritage landrace type of the Silky Fainting Goat. It prioritizes structural soundness, functional type, and documented lineage over trends. Updates are made carefully and transparently as the registry matures. The Heritage Silky Fainting Goat is a structurally correct, long-haired goat exhibiting the myotonic traits and fainting response to varying degrees. The breed blends elegance with soundness and must always prioritize health, temperament, and heritage traits.
Version: v1.0Last Updated: February 21, 2026Status: Active Preservation StandardApplies To: HSFGR registrations and evaluationsView Revision History
ESSENTIAL BREED TRAITS
Silky Coat
Long, flowing, fine, non-woolly hair.
Length should drape and move fluidly.
Bangs, beard, chest and more than breeching hair should be present and never coarse
Fainting Response (Myotonia) Highly desired
Expression ranges from stall to full collapse.
Non-fainting goats and offspring should be noted as such
Temperament
Calm, friendly, manageable behavior.
No aggression; bucks should be handleable.
GENERAL APPEARANCE
The ideal Heritage Silky Fainting Goat is balanced, clearly feminine or masculine as appropriate, and maintains a refined, elegant outline without losing substance or Myotonic character.
“Elegant” in this breed does not mean frail, fine-boned, or dairy-sharp. It means a goat that is put together smoothly, stands and moves with ease, and carries their strength in a clean, functional frame.
Balance & Proportion
Body parts should fit each other – head, neck, body, and legs in proportion.
No one feature should dominate: not the coat, not the hip, not the neck.
The goat should give an overall impression of harmony and usefulness, not bulk
for bulk’s sake.
Sex Character
Does: feminine, but still obviously Myotonic in build – enough length, width and depth to kid and work, without looking coarse or overstuffed.
Bucks: masculine and powerful, with more mass and presence than does, but still clean-lined and mobile, not blocky or awkward.
Substance vs. Refinement
Bone and body should show real substance – this is a heritage Landrace Myotonic-based goat, not a narrow, hyper-dairy type.
At the same time, we do not favor overly thick-heavy goats that lose grace, freedom of movement, or breed style.
Ideal animals look like they can work, age, and stay sound, not like they’re either starved for condition or fed into immobility.
Movement & Presence
The goat should move with a free, easy stride, appropriate to a Myotonic breed (allowing for stiffening episodes).
From the side, the outline should read as smooth and purposeful, with no clunky, cobbled-together sections.
What HSFGR Means by “Elegant”
When this standard says elegant, it means:
• Clean lines, smooth blending, and a body that “flows” front to back
• Enough refinement to avoid a coarse, blocky appearance without sacrificing:
- Length of body
- Width of chest and rump
- Depth of barrel and capacity
- Strong bone and correct Myotonic character
- Overly fine, narrow, or sharp goats are not the goal.
- Overly massive, round, overfed, or waddling goats are also not the goal.
The Heritage Silky Fainting Goat should read as:
balanced, functional, and quietly elegant,
a silky, long haired flowing coated Myotonic-based goat that carries its strength in a refined package, not in extremes..
HAIR & COAT DETAIL
Hair Hair Hair Everywhere! This is the icing on the cake!
Heritage Silky Fainting Bucks and Does should have a single silky shiny coat of hair that moves as they do. Fine texture with sheen and swing. Both bucks & does should have a full coat with bangs, chest, belly, leg & facial hair with no cashmere-type wooliness. Fine texture can be both a thinner lighter coat to a dense massive amount of thick yet still fine silky hair. Both are acceptable.
ALL silkies will have some degree of down, especially over winter. Excessive cashmere-type undercoat is generally found on “doubled-coated” silkies and is not desirable.
What HSFGR Means by “Non-Woolly”
In HSFGR, non-woolly means the coat is hair-based and silky, not fiber-based and plush.
A correct Heritage Silky coat is:
Single-Coated Appearance and Feel
The coat reads as one layer that drapes and moves as a sheet.
It does not feel dense, puffy, spongy, or “packed” close to the skin.
When parted, the coat should not reveal a thick, fuzzy underlayer.
Fine, Hair-Like Texture
Individual strands feel smooth and hair-like, not cottony or crimpy.
The coat should not have a “grabby” feel that clings together like fleece.
Drape Over Volume
The coat hangs and flows. It doesn’t stand off the body like a plush jacket.
Correct coats can be abundant, but they are not bulky.
Minimal Undercoat
A small amount of soft seasonal undercoat can occur in cold months, but it should be light and temporary, not a defining feature.
A heavy cashmere-like undercoat that makes the coat thick, puffy, or overly insulating is not consistent with the Heritage Silky direction.
Low Felting and Low “Wool Behavior”
The coat should not readily felt, mat, or form woolly clumps at the base.
Mats can happen from management, but the underlying texture should still be silky/hair-based rather than woolly/fiber-based.
Summary
While soft undercoat expression may occur seasonally, a dense cashmere-type underlayer that creates volume, loft, or padded appearance is not consistent with the Heritage Silky direction. The defining feature of this breed is a silky, hair-based coat that drapes and reveals the goat’s structure, not a fiber-dominant coat that obscures it.
HEAD & EXPRESSION
Head, Eyes, Ears, Face & Horns
Eyes
Heritage Silky Fainting Goats should have eyes that look alive, open, and expressive, reflecting both good health and that unmistakable Myotonic character.
Size & Expression
Eyes should be fairly large and full, with a bright, alert expression. They should give the head a friendly, aware look- not dull, sunken, or sleepy. Extremely bulging eyes, very small or pinched eyes, chronic irritation, or obvious vision problems are considered faults, as they detract from both type and long-term soundness.
Set & Character
The eye sockets are often a bit more prominent than in many other breeds, contributing to classic Myotonic type. This can give a slightly “bold” or “wide- awake” look, but should not appear extreme, bulging, or frog-eyed. Eyes should set well into a broad forehead with a straight to sightly dished profile
Health & Function
As with all goats, the eyes have a horizontal, rectangular pupil, giving a wide field of vision. Eyes must be clear, clean, and comfortable, with no chronic tearing, cloudiness, scarring, or signs of irritation. Lids should close and fit properly.
Color
Brown, blue, amber and gold shades are common and fully acceptable. Eye color alone should never outweigh overall structure, soundness, and breed character.
Ears
The perfect set is level with the eyes, mid length, carried horizontal to slightly upright or carried forward in toward the nose. Ears should rise when alert. Exhibition of a ripple or wave is highly desired.
Acceptable but not the desired look: Ears that are very high set-off the top of the head and Ears that turn down toward the ground
Ears that are low set toward the jaw/well below the eyes and upright alpine type ears are not desired. Ears that droop, airplane or pendulous type ears are considered faults.
Face, Profile & Bite
The face should show Heritage Silky Myotonic influence with a refined outline, not a coarse meat head and not an overly sharp dairy head.
Profile
Preferred profile is straight to slightly dished. Never a roman type nose. Fine features (does) or stronger planes (bucks) Silky facial hair & beard are encouraged
Bite
A correct bite is essential for proper grazing ability and long-term health.
The Heritage Silky Fainting Goat should exhibit a correct scissor bite, meaning the upper dental pad aligns properly with the lower incisors. When the mouth is closed, the lower incisors should meet the upper dental pad squarely and evenly.
The following conditions are considered faults:
Overshot bite (Parrot Mouth)
The lower jaw is too short, causing the lower incisors to fall behind the dental pad.
Undershot bite (Monkey Mouth)
The lower jaw extends beyond the dental pad, causing the incisors to protrude forward.
Wry or misaligned jaw
The jaw deviates sideways, preventing proper alignment of the incisors.
Bite faults can interfere with grazing efficiency and may worsen as the animal matures. Animals with severe bite faults should not be used in breeding programs.
NOTE: Minor variation in young kids may self-correct as the jaw develops, but persistent bite faults in mature animals are considered undesirable for breeding stock.
Horns
Bucks: May be disbudded, horned or polled. All are acceptable. Strong, well-curved, balanced horns. Horn base should not meet tight at center, and should have a two-fingered space in-between.
Does: May be disbudded, horned or polled. All are acceptable.
BODY STRUCTURE - HSFGR CONFORMATION
Correct conformation is essential to breed integrity.
Jump To:
SIZE & PROPORTION - Compact yet Elegant
Preferred height range at full maturity or 36 months +
- Mature Bucks: 23–25 inches
- Mature Does: 21–23 inches
Acceptable height range at full maturity or 36 months +
- Mature Bucks: 21–26 inches
- Mature Does: 19–24 inches
Neck, Shoulders, Chest & Topline
Neck Bucks:
Bucks should exhibit a strong, masculine neck that is:
- Thick and muscled at the base
- Moderate to moderately long in length
- Set high on the shoulders and carried upright to slightly horizontal
The neck should tie smoothly into the shoulders and brisket with no abrupt break or “stuck on” look. Short, blocky necks that appear to sit directly on the shoulders, or very long, weak, dairy-type necks are both undesirable.
Note: When bucks are “stacked”, for evaluation and measurement, they will be judged & measured in a way that does not penalize a naturally uphill stance.
Neck Does:
Does should show a longer, more refined neck than bucks, while still maintaining strength and function. The neck should be:
- Gracefully extended and smoothly blended into the shoulders
- Proportionate to body length
- Carried uphill with length; a slightly horizontal carriage is acceptable
Overly short, thick, or coarse necks that lack femininity, or extremely long, flimsy necks lacking support, are faults.
Shoulders & Withers
- Shoulders should be smoothly laid in, blending cleanly from the neck into the ribs.
- Protruding, sharp, or loosely attached shoulders are undesirable.
- Withers should be well attached and balanced, not excessively loaded, hollow, gapped, or loose.
- Correct shoulders and withers contribute to a strong topline, free movement, and overall structural soundness.
Chest
The chest should be:
- Deep and adequately wide in both bucks and does
- Broad enough between the front legs to indicate heart and lung capacity
- Full through the forechest, not narrow or pinched
- Narrow, shallow chests are undesirable and suggest weaker constitution.
Back & Loin
- The back should be strong and nearly level, from withers through loin.
- The loin should be wide and well-muscled, supporting the hindquarters and overall body capacity.
- Swayback, weak toplines, or pronounced roach backs are faults and reduce durability and overall soundness.
Chine – Topline Between Withers & Loin
The chine is the section of the back just behind the withers and before the loin. On a Heritage Silky Fainting Goat, this area should read as strong, smooth, and well connected – not a weak dip, not a sharp bump, and not broken into pieces.
The chine should:
Flow cleanly out of the withers, without a sudden drop or hollow
Tie smoothly into the loin, helping create a level, unified topline
Feel firm and well supported to the hand, not soft, sagging, or tent-shaped
Look like it belongs to the same goat as the neck, shoulders, and loin – no chopped-up, disjointed sections
Because these goats are heritage myotonic but refined, we are not looking for a coarse, heavy meat-animal back, nor a razor-bladed dairy chine. We want a strong, functional span that supports movement, kidding, and long-term soundness.
Undesirable chines include:
A deep dip or sway directly behind the withers
A sharp, high “bump” or roached chine breaking the topline
Obvious separation between withers, chine, and loin instead of one smooth run
Weak, soft backs that roll when the goat walks
In short, the chine on a Heritage Silky should help the goat read as balanced and put- together from front to back -not like three different goats stitched together in the middle.
Rump & Hindquarters
Heritage Silky Fainting Goats should retain clear Myotonic influence in the hindquarter – strength, width, and depth – but with a more refined outline than heavy meat-type Myotonics. They are not extreme meat goats, nor are they sharp, flat-rumped dairy goats; they fall in a functional, moderate middle.
Rump – Shape & Angle
Viewed from the side, the rump should:
- Show a moderate slope from hips to tail head
- Be neither excessively steep (which can interfere with movement and kidding)
- Nor perfectly flat and “dairy sharp”
Moderate length is preferred: long enough to give room for refined muscling and kidding ease, but not so long and flat that the goat looks out of balance with the rest of the body.
Viewed from behind, the rump and hindquarters should appear:
Broad and well filled, with good width through the pins
Deep through the thighs, with moderate muscling carried down toward the hock
Paired with hind legs that are set squarely under the body, not too close and not excessively wide or cow-hocked
Barrel and Spring of Ribs
Heritage Silkies should have a round, well-sprung ribcage and a deep, roomy barrel.
When you stand over the goat and look down, you should be able to see that rounded body shape, not a narrow, slab-sided outline. This “spring of rib” reflects width, capacity, and overall body volume.
A strong barrel isn’t just “pretty”, it serves a purpose: it provides room and protection for vital organs (heart, lungs) and supports long-term function and durability.
Rib structure also affects the topline. The ribs attach at the spine, so goats with flat, tight, narrow ribs often lack true body capacity and can appear weak through the back. Inadequate rib shape can compromise the look and strength of the topline and overall balance.
In short: We value a Heritage Silky with a well rounded barrel and good spring of rib. Built to last, built to function, and built for soundness.
Muscling & Type Balance
Heritage Silkies should show:
Definite to moderate muscle in the rump and thigh, reflecting their Myotonic roots
• Enough width and depth to suggest capacity and strength
• But not the extreme, blocky, “brick of meat” appearance of heavily selected terminal meat lines
Overly light, narrow hindquarters that lack Myotonic character are undesirable, but so are exaggerated, coarse rumps that sacrifice balance, mobility, or femininity/masculinity appropriate to sex.
Tail Carriage
The tail should be set reasonably high on the rump and well centered, wide at the base of rump narrowing to a tip (think triangle). It is desirable for the tail to curve up over the back but an upright tail position that rises when alert is acceptable.
Myotonia, Movement & the “Swivel at the Hip
Because these Silky Fainting Goats have a strong myotonic heritage influence, some aspects of movement reflect normal Myotonic behavior rather than structural faults. This can include:
A brief stiff-legged shuffle after startle
Momentary bracing or “locking up”
Older goats learning to spread their legs or shift at the hip to accommodate myotonia
This “swivel at the hip” or slightly awkward recovery step can be within the typical range for Myotonic type silkies and should be understood in context.
However:
Judges and inspectors should distinguish between neurological stiffening (myotonia) and true structural unsoundness (such as severe post-legged hind legs, weak pasterns, or chronic lameness).
Repeated, obvious difficulty moving, chronic pain, or conformation so extreme that the goat cannot comfortably function should be considered a fault, even in the presence of myotonia.
In short, the Heritage Silky rump and hindquarters should read as:
Myotonic-based, strong, and functional – refined enough for silky type, but never flimsy or dairy-sharp.
Reproductive Soundness- Heritage Silky Fainting Goats
Udder & Teats – Desired Doe Conformation:
The ideal udder is snug, well supported, and blends smoothly into the body. She doesn’t need (or want) an extreme dairy udder, but she does need a sound, functional one that will hold up over time and let kids nurse easily. Globular / snug attachment is ideal.
Rear attachment
From behind, the rear udder should sit high and wide in the escutcheon, forming a smooth, rounded “U” that fills the space between the legs without dropping low. This broad attachment gives strength and room for reasonable capacity without sacrificing support.
Fore attachment
The fore udder should come forward under the belly in a clean, gradual line, not as a bulge stuck on behind the rear legs. There should be no deep pocket or abrupt step where the udder meets the body wall.
Suspensory ligaments
Strong medial (center) and lateral (side) ligaments keep the udder up and in. The center ligament should create a clear defined line between the halves of the udder and keep it from sagging. Side support should hold the udder snug
Teats
Teats should rest on the udder at an angle babies can walk up and nurse without doing acrobatics. Not straight down, not pointing outward toward the legs or to far inward. While Heritage Silkies are not bred for dairy production, they should still show a neat, functional udder with good support and a capacity appropriate to the doe’s frame.
Scrotum, Testicles & Teats – Desired Buck Conformation:
In Heritage Silky Fainting bucks, a good scrotal attachment means the testicles are carried in a single, well- shaped sac that sits fairly high and close to the body, with no tendency to swing low or appear overly loose. A scrotum that has a single tip or not. This is the desired structure in order. The scrotum should never have a split.
A correct scrotum should:
Contain two testicles, both fully descended, similar in size and shape
Show firm tone and a tidy, compact outline, not long or pendulous
Present as one unified scrotum, not a deep split or “two bags” look
Have adequate circumference for a mature buck, supporting normal sperm production (around 25 cm / 10 inches or more at maturity)
a single tip and no split
An exaggerated lengthwise split, an obviously divided scrotum, or the presence of only one testicle (monorchid/cryptorchid) are considered serious faults and consideration for removal of the buck from a breeding program by banding or other veterinarian methods.
-The Controversial Sac
Teats:
Bucks should have 2 teats only, that set on either side of the scrotum attachment to the body. Any improper placements, extras or “spurs” are considered a fault and we would urge you to band the boy.
Legs, Hocks, Pasterns & Hooves
Rear Legs & Hocks
From behind, the hind legs should:
- Be set squarely under the pins, not crowding together and not standing excessively wide
- Drop straight from hip to hock to hoof, the hocks neither turning in (cow-hocked) nor bowing out
- Give a sense of width and power, especially in bucks, and room for udder in does
From the side, the rear legs should show:
- Moderate, natural angulation at the stifle and hock – enough bend for easy movement and shock absorption
- A clear difference between a soft, working joint and a too-straight, post-legged hind leg
- Hocks that are strong and clean, not swollen, soft, or “mushy” to the eye
Overly straight (post-legged) goats, or overly sickle-hocked (too much angle, legs tucked under), are both undesirable and tend to break down over time.
Front Legs & Forelegs
From the front, the front legs should:
- Be straight and directly under the shoulders, not knocked-kneed, not bow- legged
Stand nearly vertical from knee to hoof, with toes pointing forward rather than splaying out or in
Be spaced to show adequate chest width, especially in bucks, indicating heart and lung capacity
From the side, forelegs should:
- Support a balanced, upright posture, with the leg placed under the body- not way out in front or tucked too far back
- Show clean knees and strong bone, not fine, frail, or overly heavy and coarse
Pasterns (there are 4)
Pasterns (between the fetlock and hoof) act as the goat’s “shock absorbers.” In Heritage Silkies, we want pasterns that are:
Strong and medium in length – not stilt-upright and not long and soft
Slightly flexible, with a gentle angle, so the goat can move freely and comfortably
Capable of carrying weight without “breaking down” or collapsing over time
Faults in pasterns include:
Weak, dropped pasterns that sit low and spongy to the ground
Overly upright pasterns that give a jarring, choppy stride
Any obvious instability that suggests the goat will not stay sound with age or weight
Feet & Hooves
Hooves should be:
Well shaped and proportionate to the goat’s size
Tightly closed at the heel, not spread out and flat
Kept properly trimmed so the toe is short to moderate, and the goat stands on the whole foot, not rocked back or walking on overgrown toes
Feet should be placed:
Under the corners of the body, forming a stable base both front and rear
Straight from pastern into hoof, with toes pointing mostly forward, not sharply outward or inward
Healthy, well-formed hooves support the weight of the goat and allow for fluid movement. Neglected feet and long, deformed hooves will ruin even a well-built goat over time. Regular trimming should be practiced as a part of soundness.
Common Leg & Foot Faults (to Avoid)
Cow-hocked (hocks turn in, feet out)
Bow-legged or base-narrow behind
Post-legged (hind legs too straight, little hock angle)
Sickle-hocked (too much bend, legs)
COLOR & PATTERN
All colors and patterns accepted.
Color should be described as accurately as possible using the HSFGR Color & Pattern Guide
HSFGR DISQUALIFICATIONS
- Absence of Myotonic traits
- Severe structural defects
- Cryptorchidism
- Hermaphroditism
- Aggressive temperament
- Read Reproductive Soundness again